Time can be so magical. It gives you the luxury of looking back and evaluating decisions so painstakingly obsessed over and learning from the outcomes. As I write about my trip to Kruger National Park from the comfort of our home back in Colorado, I believe I made the right decision, but I still cling to the trip I didn’t take and feel the need to go back.
While on Safari with Axel, as we rode out into the velvet black African starry night sky, I couldn’t help but imagine what it would have been like to have my own Masai guide, a keeper of ancient wisdom and a tracker, watching the sunset with us and bringing us closer to the heart of this wild land. I pictured warm smiles greeting me in the Masai Village, the vibrant colors of traditional beadwork, and the ceremonies I would witness, aligning perfectly with my perpetual quest to uncover the soul of every place I visit through its people, over being on a commercialized safari where the main goal was to get as close to the animals as possible.
Yet, a part of me was grateful for choosing a safer path. The wilderness holds as many dangers as it does wonders, a fact that became startlingly clear on my final night in South Africa. But that’s a tale for another time, one that still sends shivers down my spine when I recall it. For now, I’ll let the dream linger, a whisper of what could have been, as I reflect on the incredible journey I did have. Sometimes, the road not taken is just as important as the one we choose to follow.
What does stand out vividly in my mind are the precious moments shared with my middle son. I can still see the majestic herd of elephants, their giant forms silhouetted against the golden African sunset, as they ambled gracefully across the field before our safari lodge, Axel and I sitting in awe as nature’s gentle giants passed by, their little ones running to keep up, ears flapping.
Then there was the heart-stopping moment when a baby rhino, all bravado, and curiosity, mock-charged our jeep. Its tiny horn was barely visible, yet its spirit was as mighty as any adult’s. We couldn’t help but laugh at its endearing display of courage. The gleam in Axel’s eyes matched the excitement I felt—a shared moment of wonder that words could never fully capture.
As twilight embraced the savanna during our Sundowners, we witnessed elephants and Ostrich walking near us, their presence both humbling and exhilarating. The sky blazed with colors, while the not-too-distant calls of wildlife created nature’s symphony.
These experiences, etched forever in our hearts, remind me that sometimes the most extraordinary adventures are those we share with the ones we love. In the vastness of the African wilderness, I found not just the soul of a continent but a deeper connection with my son – a gift more precious than any souvenir.
Johannesburg
My trip began by landing in Johannesburg. With images of walking out of the airport and being bombarded by heat, chaos, and all sorts of car services wanting to give me a ride, I played it safe and paid a little extra to arrange a pick-up from the Clico Boutique Hotel, where I would be staying. I researched the hotel online by plugging in “hip affordable boutique hotels in Johannesburg.” Turns out, I made the right choice.
I was met inside the airport by a man with a big smile holding a sign with my first name on it. It was a relief to not have to worry about my ride after a 15-hour flight. All in all, I felt safe, except for when he wasn’t paying attention and almost went up the down escalator with my bag in tow. “Ummmm … What are you doing?” I asked loudly before he actually stepped on. That made me a bit apprehensive to get in a car with him with the steering wheel on the right side of the car and the driving lanes on the opposite side of the highway. But I was in it for the adventure … so off we went.
Clico Boutique Hotel
Clico Boutique Hotel is located in Johannesburg in Rosebank. It was a lovely hotel, and I felt very much at home and welcome there as I ran up and down the stairs to my room. June is wintertime in S. Africa, and it is chilly. It also turns out that I didn’t feel at all disoriented or lonely and was quite happy to head to the hotel’s restaurant, Sec, alone with my book and eat a delicious “Hug in a Bowl”, a 30-hour-cooked salmon broth with caviar eggs made by Chef Damian. As I sipped my chilled white wine and read my book amidst a bustle of hip people, I took comfort in the hot broth, the taste perfectly balanced and just salty enough. The caviar eggs were large, bursting with flavor, and added a fun pop to the meal.
My room at the Clico Hotel was comfortable and spacious. The bed was cozy, and the bathroom was a nice size with instant hot water and good pressure from the shower head, as well as a tub for soaking. I particularly enjoyed working from the room with the balcony doors open and the sun streaming in. Had I felt like shopping, the Clico Hotel was within walking distance to the shopping center, and Ubers were readily available, but I didn’t come to S. Africa to shop in a mall, and I was quite content just hanging out at the hotel and adjusting to the time change.
In the morning, I enjoyed a typical South African buffet breakfast with eggs, sausage, and dried fruit. I sat in a sunny room by a real working fireplace—so cozy! I then found a lounge chair in the sun and spent a glorious day reading by the pool while waiting for Axel to meet me from Zimbabwe, making the most of the tranquil environment.
The warmth and friendliness of the staff, particularly Peggy and Henry, made my stay even more enjoyable. Peggy did not make me feel bad when I set the alarm off for the safe in the room within seconds of arriving; she just quickly and efficiently came up and opened up the safe.
When Axel arrived he took a long, hot shower, as he always seems to need after being gone from home for any length of time. Everybody loved having a young, fresh face at the hotel, and Henry would lean into me with a smile and a nudge when he would see Axel and me together as if to be in cahoots with me as Axel’s mom. He also went above and beyond for Axel and me, making sure we were safe getting into the Uber when we went to The Four Seasons to watch the sunset.
Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, Johannesburg
The Four Seasons The Westcliff in Johannesburg was spectacular. With the dollar so strong, we almost could have afforded to stay there, but a cocktail on the deck was good enough as we absorbed the S. African winter sunset over fields of trees, S. African geese flying above us. The drive up in a golf cart to the resort on top of a hill was in itself beautiful. With Axel drinking his Toucan Sam and me with my Dirty Martini, he caught me up on his stay in Zimbabwe teaching me his favorite Shona expression he learned from the artists he studied under. The traditional greeting involves a clap after the handshake. The first person claps twice while saying, “Makadii,” ‘How are you? ‘ and Axel loves the reply, “Makadiini wo,” which means, I’m well if you’re well.
Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff is the home of Johannesburg’s most outstanding vistas, and its terraces are the city’s best vantage point from which to take in sweeping views of early summer’s explosion of vivid purple jacaranda blooms.
https://drifttravel.com/welcome-summer-with-four-seasons-hotel-the-westcliffs-exclusive-program-of-summer-activities/
Ubuntu Luxury Villa
The next day, Axel and I flew to Hoedspruit from Johannesburg. I had requested mountain biking from Evan Dunstone of Nala Africa, who had planned my itinerary for me. He had us stay for two nights at Ubuntu Luxury Villa in Bushveld, on the Hoedspruit Wildlife Estate, with free-roaming wildlife, before driving to our ultimate destination at the Umkumbe Lodge, which would be a three-and-a-half-hour drive to Kruger National Park.
The villa owners, Anouk and Dennis, were the perfect hosts for making sure we knew everything about the villa and the surrounding area. For a small extra fee, they met us at the airport, helped us secure our rental car, and then Anouk hopped into our car while Dennis led the way back to the property, providing a lively tour of the area as we followed.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by a sweet little barn owl perched on a tree branch, peering into our room—a charming welcome visitor. What made the sighting even more special was how excited Anouk was to see it, showing their love for nature and animals.
Our three-bedroom villa was more than a mother and her artistic son required, but it was fun for us to stay in such a well-appointed place in a real neighborhood where we could adjust to the time change. Since there are no lions, only leopards, in the estate, one can ride mountain bikes throughout and visit the watering holes created to attract the animals.
Their villa is clearly a source of pride, and it was easy to see why as they showed us around. They are much more than vacation rental managers; they are also talented photographers with a sense of design. Their stunning wildlife images adorned the walls, showcasing their work. This happy, loving-power couple has drawn on their extensive tourism experience to create the perfect space to connect with nature.
In the fridge, we found a bottle of local South African wine, and on the counter, another local product, a box of delicious Amarula Fudge with Amarula Cream Liquor which featured Jabulani, the elephant we were soon to meet at the Elephant Moments orphanage. Their attention to comfort and conservation-focused efforts and products was a welcome touch, from soft and comfortable linens to coffee and even a frother for milk!
On our first evening, we took out the bikes we had rented from Anouk and Dennis, conveniently located right at the villa, and explored the bike paths in the estate as the sunset. When we reached a dam, we were disappointed to not see any wildlife, but as we started to leave, I caught sight of a giraffe’s head and his sweet horns. I took a double take because his head was upside down. What the??? I backed up slowly to look more closely, and there in the reflection of the water was the giraffe’s head. I looked up to be gifted with the sight of two giraffes standing magnificently. As our jaws dropped open in awe, a family rode by on their bikes, not even seeing the giraffes. Perhaps for them giraffes are like how deer are to us, a dime a dozen, which is what we heard while on safari about lions. I guess we tend to get accustomed to everything that we see consistently.
Horse Back Riding in S. Africa
Call us crazy, but we also went horseback riding on the estate. Although Jessica, our guide, couldn’t have been more adorable in her youthfulness and magnetic personality, as well as her comfort with the horses, the comfort level ended there.
It was incredibly windy the day we went, and my horse, who Jessica described as an Angel, seemed a bit devilish to me, jumping up when spooked and kicking Axel’s horse. It didn’t help that we overheard two of the young women working at the outfitting place talking about a woman who had to be flighted out due to toppling over the horse’s head after it unexpectedly jerked its head down. TMI. Upon reflection, riding in a place where a “cute” family of Wart Hogs was running around, along with other wild animals, was not so smart. If the horses were spooked by the wind, what would happen if they ran into a wild boar?
At one point, we came to a standstill with a woman walking two huge white dogs in front of us and mountain bikers ascending behind us. Yelling rudely for us to get out of their way, Angel reacted and turned nervously, ready to take off into the thick, thorny bush. Knowing myself, I had had a little mental talk before heading out, reminding myself that I was a calm person who loved animals, and if my horse were to act up, I would remain calm and take control. So when Angel started to act up, I held the reins tight and imagined myself as the sheriff in town, which is what I did when my boys were all teenagers, and I took control. I knew that I had to use just the right amount of force or get tossed. “Whoaaaaa,” I said, gripping my legs as hard as I could and tightening up on the reins. Somehow I managed to calm her down and we resumed as if nothing had happened. I took some incredibly long breaths to slow my fast-beating heart but was so focused on staying in the saddle that I didn’t dare look back at Axel to make sure he was okay, lest my horse try to take off again.
When we got off the horse, Jessica asked if we wanted to feed our horse a carrot. “Ahhhh, no thanks,” we said, hightailing it to our car. “Well, I hope you’ll come back,” she called after us with a smile. “Yeah, No. That won’t be happening.” Laughing she commented on how she loved my frankness, which actually was a trait that I found all over S. Africa. There was no bullshit with the people we met, and they said things straight up. I appreciated that, and I had no desire to fake our discomfort with the entire morning. For the record, the stables were clean, and the horses appeared to be well-fed and happy; all I am saying is that I wouldn’t recommend horseback riding in Africa if you are not comfortable on a horse.
Elephant Moments
On the morning when we visited the elephant orphanage at Elephant Moments, we began our day early, waking at 5 a.m. to drive our rental car through the Kapama Game Reserve. We should have realized that a Game Reserve meant that we would be taking a self-driven safari, but we were new to it all and had no idea that we were going to see so many animals. As we drove towards the deep red sunrise, we spotted a leopard stalking its breakfast, two lions sleepily waking up by the road, and giraffes and zebras gracefully crossing our path. We practically saw more wildlife on this drive than we did during our actual safari! Had we known, we might have been on higher alert, but the surprise made it even more thrilling.
The visit to the elephant orphanage was both enlightening and moving. As we listened to the stories of the herd’s rescue and rehabilitation programs, we could see these majestic creatures striding towards us from the bush, accompanied by their handlers. The sight was unforgettable and gave us a deep appreciation for the incredible work being done to help the elephants. Meeting three of the older elephants, Sebakwe, Somapani, and Jabulani, was a truly magnificent experience. With warthogs scurrying about and monkeys leaping from the trees, we listened intently to our guide, who shared fascinating insights into the biology and physiology of the elephants, along with heartfelt stories of their journeys to the orphanage and the orphanage conservation efforts. All proceeds from these visits go directly towards the care of the HERD Trust, supporting these wonderful animals and the dedicated team that looks after them.
Safari in Hoedspruit
Picture this: We’re about to jet off to our next wild adventure when fate throws us a curveball in the form of Curtis Roberts – a walking, talking encyclopedia of African wildlife wrapped in the body of a passionate young photographer and safari guide.
I connected with Curteis on Instagram when I was back in the States, and we had been communicating. However, I didn’t think we were going to be able to meet up with him. As fate would have it, I spotted his van at the Hoedspruit Mall—this funky outdoor hangout that’s more ‘local flavor’ than ‘tourist trap.’
Next thing you know, Curteis and Axel are deep in conversation about conservation, art, supporting fellow creatives, and refusing to sell out to the highest bidder. I’m telling you, these two are going places, and I suspect that they may see each other again sometime.
If you’re heading to Kruger, book Curteis as your guide. Sure, he might be younger than your average safari leader, but trust me, this guy’s passion for wildlife is deeper than an elephant’s footprint after a rainstorm. Follow him on Instagram at Curt_is_Wild and visit his website here.
Kruger National Park Umkumbe Bush Lodge
After two days in Hoedspruit, we were transported to the Umbkumbe Bush Lodge in Kruger National Park.
What we learned when arriving is that it’s a thing for people to move from safari lodge to safari lodge, and with similar names, some people end up at the wrong lodge. It was a bit chaotic as they sorted out who belonged where, but thankfully, we had gotten it right and were in the right place.
We got there in the afternoon, and still tired from the jet lag, we found lounge chairs in the sun by the pool and fell fast asleep. It turns out that waking up at 5 a.m. and going on a two-hour safari and again at 4 p.m. lends itself to lounging during the day, something I rarely do when at home. As we slept, I overheard one of the people working at the lodge stating quite loudly how Americans are lazy. I wanted to yell out that that was a gross generalization, but I was too sleepy to budge. Somehow we did miss an elephant who came up for a drink at the pool, but we were fortunate enough to witness a herd of elephants majestically marching through the field as we lounged.
Our first night there was freezing, and we were so grateful to find hot water bottles warming up our bed – with fuzzy covers, some people freaked out, thinking that a furry animal had made its way into the bed. We hadn’t been informed that there was heat in the cabins, so we braced it out our first night and fell asleep huddling our hot water bottles and listening to the low groans of Hyenas calling to each other. Axel passed out, but a very low meow came from just outside our tent. As there were no domesticated cats on the property due to the Hyenas roaming through, it must have been a wild cat, and that was super cool … and easier to digest over a roar. I’ll tell you what, though, I would absolutely NOT want to run into a Hyena at night … or ever.
The hot rubber water bottles were a welcome addition to our early morning safari drives, during which someone would wake us up each morning with a “Good Morning” and a knock outside our tent. On our first drive, as the rising sun cast a haze over the Sabie River, we spotted our first sighting: an enormous elephant grazing in the field and a beautiful Saddle-Backed stork wading in the shallow river.
Waking up for the sunrise drives was perhaps the most magical experience, though the sundowners with ostriches and elephants grazing in the fields gave it stiff competition. The star-gazing on our night drives was also enchanting, other than when we got a flat tire and were sent out into the Bush to gather rocks to level the jack – but as I heard Hyena chattering in the very near distance, I grabbed Axel’s arm and pulled him back, handing him the torch flashlight and stating that he was far more useful providing light for those making very lame attempts to find rocks. Why they didn’t have a level on the truck, or a gun for that matter, was mystifying to me. But I will say, our female guide was a badass, grabbing the jack from the spotter and taking over. For some reason, we weren’t scared. Perhaps it’s because we didn’t really know the danger we may have been in.
The staff at Umkumbe were incredibly helpful and friendly, accommodating my gluten-free requests with care. However, if you are a foodie, you might find the culinary offerings a bit underwhelming. Also, be aware that the WiFi was sporadic, and it worked best during the day from the office. But really, who goes on safari to be glued to a computer?
On one of our early morning drives, our guide excitedly told us there was a kill and so we raced out to check it out. A female older leopard had killed an Impala and as we drove over to the kill we stopped and listened … the monkeys were chattering and we could hear the Impala making a coughing sound signaling their distress. It seemed that every animal in the near vicinity was on high alert, even the giraffes were facing the direction of the kill. When we got to the leopard and the carcass we were sad to see that she was too old to quickly drag the kill into a tree and immediately the Hyenas came in and stole her kill. We watched as they tore apart the animal and carried it away, leaving only the stomach for the leopard.
One major regret was not requesting different guides each day. Although we enjoyed our guide’s company and expertise, I realized too late that we would have been able to switch and hear the other guides bring unique stories of conservation and personal connections to the flora and fauna. In particluar, Leo has spent months in the bush following a mommy rhino giving birth and nurturing her baby, only to have the both murdered by poachers. When we spotted the baby rhino, it was quiet Leo who raced up to see the baby Rhino. His excitement was infectiious as this quiet man zoomed up singing, “baby rhino, baby rhino …”
Our guide seemed to have no fear, comfortably off-roading to get up close and personal with the herd of elephants and their baby so that we could watch the baby elephant try it’s best to learn how to use its trunk to eat but give up to retreat to suckle from its mama’s teat. The drivers were very respectful of one another, and you could hear them over the radio politely requesting to join when an animal was discovered, as well as politely retreat so as not to hog the experience and let others enjoy the view. We also discovered that landowners have strict rules about crossing their boundaries and that guns were known to be used to eliminate that potential.
We loved the tales from the guides and their knowledge of the animals and conservation efforts, like how in Kruger National Park they cut the horns of the Rhinos to make it less appealing to poachers. Malaki told me that they don’t do that in Kenya. I think next time, I would prefer to stay at a Game Reserve and have the animals come to us.
After four days on Safari, admittedly, we were ready to leave. As much as I enjoyed the opportunity to get up close and personal with the animals, I couldn’t help but feel uneasy at the bold approach to getting so close. It felt disruptive and aggressive. At one point, we got stuck as we approached the elephants, and I thought about all the things that could go wrong, Even if they were experienced drivers. I know my boys when they are restless, and I could only imagine how dangerous a young male elephant could be in Must.
When it was time to leave the lodge, our driver appeared. Tall and handsome with a great accent, and we liked him immediately. The oddly humorous thing about the transport drivers who take you from one location to the other is that they drive cars with very low clearance, and there are very high-speed bumps everywhere. No more than five minutes into the drive, our driver bottomed out on a sandy speed bump. “Spot me,” he said as he got out of the car to investigate. Spot him? Against what? Elephants? Lions? Hyena? And then what if we saw one approaching? I know both Axel and I have heroic tendencies, and we really had no desire to watch our driver get mauled as we sat inside spotting.
He began by telling us a story about helping to dig dams for water in the bush and getting chased by a giraffe, “I had taken a break from shoveling a hole to fill in with water for the animals and was on my cell when I heard someone yell, ‘run!’ I looked up to see a giraffe coming at me. Thankfully I am a runner and so I acted like an Impala and zig zagged myself to safety with the giraffe kicking its long legs at my heels.”
As Axel and I approached the airport’s security checkpoint, the stark fluorescent lights and sterile environment felt like a jarring intrusion into the dreamy landscape we had reluctantly left behind. The transition was akin to waking abruptly from a vivid, colorful dream into a world of muted grays. My heart grew heavy with the impending separation from Axel, our shared adventure drawing to a close as I prepared to embark on my next chapter in Cape Town.
The security line moved forward, a monotonous rhythm so at odds with the wild, unpredictable pulse of the African bush. Suddenly, the flow was interrupted. Axel stood before the security officer, a petite woman whose eyes crinkled with a mixture of amusement and exasperation. “Awww man,” she said, her voice lilting with gentle reproach, “why you got to try and bring all of your tools and even your knife through security?” Her words hung in the air, a reminder of the world we were re-entering.
Axel’s face, still sun-kissed from our safari, broke into a sheepish grin. “Ohhhh, that’s where my knife is,” he chuckled, his hands already reaching into his bag. As he began to empty his pockets, a small cascade of memories tumbled out – thorns, quills, and small trinkets collected from our journey. Each item seemed to shimmer with the magic of Africa, defying the harsh airport lighting. These weren’t mere souvenirs, but talismans imbued with stories and intentions, destined to be incorporated into his art back in the States.
As Axel turned to check his bag, I felt a bittersweet pang. Our paths were diverging, but the threads of our shared adventure would forever intertwine our stories. The dream wasn’t over, I realized. It was simply changing shape, ready to unfold in new and unexpected ways as I journeyed on to Cape Town with more adventures to come.
